Arriving in Kobe

The heart of Kobe is not located at JR Kobe Station or the shinkansen stop at Shin-Kobe. Instead, the bustling downtown area, known as San-no-miya, centers around the train and subway station of the same name.

If you're arriving via shinkansen, you can take a quick 10-minute subway ride from Shin-Kobe to San-no-miya, or enjoy a 20-minute walk down the hill. Depending on the weather and how much luggage you're carrying, this stroll could be a pleasant introduction to the city.

For those traveling from Kyoto or Osaka, consider taking the regular JR shin-kaisoku "special rapid express service" directly to San-no-miya. Hankyu trains also connect Kyoto and Osaka to Kobe, and Hanshin trains serve routes from Osaka or Nara, making it easy to choose the most convenient option.

Popular Tourist Attractions

Ijinkan (???) Historic Foreigners’ Homes: Situated uphill from San-no-miya, the Kitanoch? district was home to affluent foreign residents during Japan's opening and the Meiji and Taish? eras. Many of these Western-style houses have been preserved as museums, making them a popular attraction for Japanese tourists. While I personally find them less appealing given my background, the Kitanoch? area is bustling with shops, hotels, and restaurants, making it worth a stroll.

Ikuta Jinja (????): This shrine, founded by Empress Jing? in 201 A.D., is one of Japan's oldest. It’s a short walk from San-no-miya towards Kitanoch? and is perfect for a quick visit. However, compared to the magnificent shrines in Kyoto, it may not be a must-see.

Arima Onsen (????): Nestled in the mountains above Kobe, Arima is one of Japan's oldest hot spring resorts, popular since at least the 7th century. Renowned for its reddish-brown therapeutic waters, Arima may not be as spectacular as other onsens but offers a convenient and relaxing experience just 30 minutes from San-no-miya.

Nankinmachi (???) Chinatown: In addition to Western traders, Kobe attracted many Chinese merchants, leading to the development of a lively Chinatown near the harbor, one of Japan's three major Chinatowns along with Yokohama and Nagasaki. On weekends, Nankinmachi bustles with visitors enjoying delicious street food and dining options. While it may be more appealing to Japanese tourists, the food is delightful, with options like nikuman (known as butaman here) shaped like cute animals.

Harbor and Boat Tour: The iconic Kobe Port Tower, resembling a taiko drum, is located along the waterfront next to the Maritime Museum. You can enjoy close-up views from Meriken Park. If the weather is pleasant, a short evening cruise around the bay offers spectacular views.

Nunobiki Herb Garden and Ropeway (??????): Want to see a German-style castle in Japan? Take the ropeway from Shin-Kobe Station up to Nunobiki Herb Gardens, home to Japan's largest herb gardens featuring 200 types of herbs and flowers. The view from the top is breathtaking as it overlooks the city below.

Shop 'Til You Drop

San-no-miya Center Gai Shopping Street (?????????): Center Gai is a covered shopping arcade located just south of San-no-miya station. It features hundreds of boutiques selling everything from quirky socks to custom-made kimonos. While the offerings may not differ much from other parts of Japan, the endless selection of stores makes for a delightful shopping experience regardless of the weather.

Santica (????): Beneath San-no-miya lies Santica, a vast underground shopping district filled with more shops and dining options.

Harborland (?????????): If you can’t find what you’re looking for in Center Gai or Santica, head to Harborland, a new waterfront shopping district. While not particularly touristy, it boasts an incredible display of Christmas lights during the holiday season.

Unique Experiences in Kobe

Now that we've covered the well-known tourist sites, here are some unique experiences that set Kobe apart from other destinations. Each offers something a little different and less trodden by tourists:

Nada Sake Walk: The Nada-ku district is the heart of Japan’s sake production, home to major breweries like Hakutsuru and Kikumasamune, as well as smaller establishments. If you appreciate sake, a day spent wandering through Nada-ku, sampling different brews, is a must.

Hakutsuru features an impressive sake museum with free tastings and a wonderful gift shop. Other breweries, including Sawanotsuru and Kikumasamune, also offer tastings and tours. Don’t miss Fukuju, which provides brewery tours (in English, but reservations are needed at least 2 days in advance) and a traditional restaurant called Sakabayashi (reservations required).

For a walking map of the sake breweries, visit: https://www.city.kobe.lg.jp/documents/15721/sakaguramap.pdf

Shopping under the Train Tracks (Piazza Kobe ?????): Stretching for 400 meters beneath the elevated train tracks between San-no-miya and Motomachi stations, Piazza Kobe is a narrow shopping arcade featuring 160 quirky shops selling everything from affordable footwear and trendy clothing to snacks.

Museum of Migration (??????????????): From 1928 to 1971, Japan encouraged immigration, primarily to South America. The National Immigration Center in Kobe served as a starting point for many immigrants. Today, the facility operates as a museum detailing the history of the Japanese diaspora.

Kitano K?b? (???????): This location gathers all the renowned foods and crafts of Kobe into a single building filled with various small shops. My personal favorite is the Kouran shop, where you can create your own nikuman steamed buns with a design of your choice (reservations required one day in advance).

The local dialect in the Kansai region, known as Kansai-ben, differs from standard Tokyo Japanese. For those interested in learning more about this dialect, check out my guidebook, Colloquial Kansai Japanese.