<Discovering Life Lessons on the Camino de Santiago Journey>
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Walking the Camino de Santiago is a unique experience that stands apart from any other hike I've undertaken. It presented some of the most demanding physical challenges I've faced. Although I made several mistakes, I've gained valuable insights that I would gladly apply to a future trek. The exhilaration of crossing that finish line is akin to the triumph felt after completing a marathon.
Recently, my sister expressed her desire to embark on the Camino journey next spring. Over the past few years, she has endured significant hardships, including health struggles and the heartbreaking loss of a child. She hopes that the Camino will aid her in reconstructing her life, and indeed, it has that potential.
Before I set off on the Camino, I too faced health challenges, including thyroid cancer and multiple surgeries, all while grappling with my impending retirement.
Throughout my journey, I encountered fellow pilgrims who were dealing with even more serious adversities. There was a young woman whose limp caught my attention. Upon asking, she revealed that she had been diagnosed with motor neuron disease, similar to ALS. With a deep desire to walk the Camino, she understood that she needed to seize the moment while she still could. Her courage brought me to tears, and during difficult stretches of my walk, I drew inspiration from her resilience.
Since my sister will be traversing the same path I did—the Camino Portuguese Coastal route—I felt it was essential to share some tips that could ease her journey. I learned many lessons along the way, including several I wish I had known before starting.
Preparing for the Camino
The most beneficial step I took was training both my body and mind for the trek, which was crucial to crossing that invisible finish line. While many hikers can manage fifteen to thirty kilometers in a single day, sustaining that pace day after day for weeks demands thorough preparation. I resolved to walk as frequently as possible to condition my body for the upcoming challenge.
I quickly realized that I should have practiced more with my fully loaded backpack. Carrying a pack weighing between fifteen to twenty pounds over long distances is no small feat, regardless of one’s strength. Additional training with my pack would have better equipped me for the journey ahead.
I also did my research and invested in a reliable backpack, ensuring it was properly fitted to my body. I learned that the weight distribution should rest on my hips rather than my back and shoulders, ideally weighing no more than ten percent of my body weight.
Every extra hundred grams in my pack felt like a burden by the end of a long day. Consequently, I became meticulous about the items I packed, weighing everything to ensure only essentials made the cut. Nonetheless, I found myself with a few unnecessary items and lacked some useful ones (like swim shorts).
Most pilgrims I met carried at least two pairs of shoes, with some opting for sandals or flip-flops for post-hike comfort. Any seasoned hiker understands the importance of giving their feet a break. However, it's crucial to avoid wearing flip-flops or sandals for hiking.
Footwear should be well-fitted and comfortable, providing adequate support. I discovered that my hiking shoes were a bit tight in the toe area, resulting in blisters. Ensuring ample room for swelling is vital.
Blisters can be a hiker's worst nightmare. I took preventive measures because I knew they could halt my journey at any moment. Padded socks were beneficial, and I carried an extra pair of toe socks for added comfort. I experimented with various bandage brands, but Compeed, a European plaster brand, proved the most effective, providing the necessary cushioning and sticking power.
One tip I picked up was to apply Vaseline to my feet daily, a practice that astonished me with its effectiveness in preventing chafing and keeping my feet soft even after covering significant distances.
Experiencing blisters during training was a blessing in disguise. They taught me which areas of my feet needed more attention and the best treatments. A crucial lesson I learned: never pop a blister or remove the skin prematurely, as your skin is your best protection against infection.
As you might gather, I placed significant emphasis on foot care. They are, after all, the most important tools for a successful Camino adventure.
Maintaining flexibility is also crucial in preventing injuries. I incorporated yoga into my routine before the Camino and worked with a physiotherapist to address specific injuries. Regular stretching and exercises helped me avoid serious discomfort throughout my journey.
My Camino began in Porto, Portugal, in mid-September, heading north along the Atlantic Coast. Typically, temperatures are mild, ranging from the low to mid-twenties, but record heat during my trek reached the low to mid-thirties.
Preparation is essential. Sunscreen is a must; every exposed area needs protection. I ended up with a distinct tan line on my hands where my shirt sleeves met my wrists. Wearing a hat and sunglasses for UV protection is also crucial.
Staying hydrated was vital given the amount of sweat lost. I always carried a one-liter water bottle, along with a smaller one for emergencies. There were days when we walked kilometers before finding a place to drink, and dehydration can be dangerous in the heat.
Having snacks available is also wise, as we often packed lunches on days when meal options were uncertain.
The Journey
Prior to starting the Camino, I acquired a credentials passport online. The goal was to get it stamped twice daily, which could be presented for a completion certificate in Santiago de Compostela.
We began our trek along the coastal route, receiving our first stamp at the cathedral in Porto, the official starting point. However, many opt to take the subway to Matosinhos to bypass bustling city streets before reaching the coast.
If you take the subway, disembark at Matosinhos Mercado and avoid going to the end of the line. From there, it's straightforward to reach the bridge crossing the Rio Leca. Once across, turn left and proceed to the coast.
Part of the coastal route features wooden boardwalks, which are gentler on the feet but tricky when using hiking poles. My poles were invaluable, yet they struggled on the boardwalk due to the slats. Adjusting their length when on the boardwalk made it manageable.
Some sections of the boardwalk had been eroded by waves, necessitating a detour through sand, which was challenging with a heavy backpack. Sand in shoes can quickly become uncomfortable, so it’s essential to remove it promptly.
While it might be tempting to remove shoes and enjoy the cool sand, caution is advised, especially if your feet are coated in Vaseline. Ensure no grains remain before putting your footwear back on.
Getting Lost Along the Way
Getting lost became part of the adventure on the Camino. Though the Portuguese Coastal route is approximately 280 kilometers, our detours added up to 333.5 kilometers by the journey's end.
Always keep an eye out for signs. Some are unmistakable, like the blue signs featuring a yellow scallop shell with an arrow. Others may be faded or positioned by local businesses hoping to attract customers—this was particularly noticeable in Vigo, Spain. Be wary of signs marked with a red line; they indicate the wrong direction.
Getting lost also provided opportunities to engage with locals for directions. Despite language barriers, many were eager to help, often correcting us even without prompting.
We relied on Google Maps more than we should have, which complicated our path. The app tends to direct users to the fastest routes, not necessarily the official Camino paths, leading us through busy roads with minimal shoulder space.
Accommodations
Choosing where to stay is an integral part of the Camino experience. Options range from public Albergues (municipally run hostels) to private accommodations, hotels, guesthouses, and even camping.
Some pilgrims opt for spontaneity, searching for lodgings upon arrival, while others prefer booking in advance. My walking companion and I decided to secure our accommodations for the entire route beforehand. This method provides certainty about our nightly resting places and daily routes.
Both approaches have their advantages and disadvantages. Waiting until you arrive can leave you without options during peak season, while pre-booking may result in overly ambitious daily distances or limit flexibility if injuries arise.
Final Tips
Here are a few additional suggestions: bring plastic bags to sit on, as rocks can quickly stain your clothing.
Ensure you have rain gear, whether a poncho that covers both you and your pack or separate jackets and covers. Each has its pros and cons.
Consider acquiring a SIM card for the countries on your route, as relying on Wi-Fi can be unreliable when navigating or during emergencies.
Don't forget a basic first-aid kit; you never know when it might come in handy.
Think about carrying a stone or similar item from home to leave behind on the Camino as a symbol of letting go of burdens, pain, or regrets.
Lastly, remember that this is not a race; there’s no need to prove anything. Everyone's experience on the Camino is unique. If carrying your pack proves too challenging, luggage transport services are available. And if things become overwhelming, taking a bus or taxi to your next destination is perfectly acceptable. Allow yourself extra days to reach Santiago for rest along the way; you’ll appreciate it when it’s over.
Buen Camino!
Thank you for reading. You can follow my entire Camino journey, including the most challenging day of the trek, until the very end.